Mac's
Old House is a roadhouse. A genuine roadhouse
just like the one in the Postman Always Rings Twice,
that play and film which involves no postmen, no doorbells,
and no repeated ringing. But it is a real roadhouse
and it sits on the edge of the town where I grew up
in Northern California. It has an old-fashioned
neon sign with an arrow, and it is a big, sprawling
bungalow with a bar in what was probably the living
room and a restaurant in the rest of the house.
Since it is probably 80 years old, at least, the outlines
of the “house” are getting a little vague, but it is
quite a place.
I
had dinner there twice when I was in Antioch last month.
You might think that this was a story about returning
to a place where I had enjoyed myself as a kid, but
that is not what this is about. This is about
status and class, history and memory, and the recalling
of events from years past.
My
parents and I never went to Mac's Old House.
No surprise there. If my parents ever went to
any place that served alcohol, or as my mother colorfully
put it, “likker”, it had to be deeply camouflaged behind
a distant bar and provided by a host or waiter who looked
as if the service of alcohol was an enterprise to be
tolerated, at best. The idea of having to push
your way through a crowded bar to find one's way to
the restaurant was completely beyond parental pale.
I suspect that the bikers and their girl friends
lounging on the front porch and the stable of “hogs”
in the yard would have contributed to their reluctance.
We
never went there. My parents were lower middle
class working people but they—especially my mother—had
a very highly developed sense of class and position.
Based, of course on nothing but illusion, but
there, nonetheless. My mother had grown up very
poor indeed, and she struggled to get where she was,
struggled in a way that my generation could never really
appreciate, and this upward struggle caused her to have
very definite ideas about certain things that our family
did not do.
And
going to a place like Mac's Old House was definitely
one of them.
So,
you can draw your own conclusions about the significance
of my deciding to dine there twice during my brief visit
to the town of my youth.
The
Bridgehead Drive In Movie Theatre Used to be located
across the road from Mac's. And we all know the
role that Drive Ins played in rites of maturity for
teenagers in our country. It was there that we
broke away from parents—even though we usually had to
borrow dad's car to get there—and there that we began
to experiment with life, love, and yes, sexuality.
The Drive In is gone. It was torn down years
ago, and across the road now is the local dealer and
repair shop for Harley-Davidson, the purveyors of the
motorcycles that sat in front of Mac's. It struck
me that this was a helpful efficiency, and I had this
brief reflection of guys bringing in their bikes, leaving
them for service, and striding across the road for dinner
at Mac's.
Mac's
is a bargain. Compared to New York City, almost
anything in California, outside of San Francisco is
a bargain. But there is something to be said
for a place that offers cocktails for $2.00, a double
for $3.00, and a triple for $4.00. Actually,
I have to confess that I did not even know that there
was such thing as a triple, but, after all, why wouldn't
there be? They specialize in roast prime rib
of beef, which looked pretty good to me, and was accompanied
by watery spaghetti with not quite enough sauce on the
pasta. The menus are printed on the place mats—this
is a place with a highly developed sense of operational
efficiency. Nothing on the dinner menu is over
about $14.00, and I think that the fourteen-dollar item
is the tabloid sized prime rib that hung off the edge
of the plate.
People
say that meals are important symbols for us, and that
many of the significant things we do involve important
meals. I would not go so far as to put Mac's
Old House in that kind of lofty category, but it was
an important aspect of my creating a rich, interesting
visit to the town where I grew up. It was equally
wonderful to spend an afternoon looking through the
pages of the Daily Ledger, the old newspaper which once
ran a story about me when I was seven. It was
even greater to spend an evening in the restored movie
and vaudeville theatre where my mother and father went
to the movies back when they were young and so was their
love.
They
say you can't go home again, and I understand that,
I really do. But you can provide little vignettes
of history to consider and enjoy while remaining a denizen
of the 21 st century. I think that was what I
was doing when I spent two nights in a sparkling new
Ramada Inn out by the freeway (an area which was grape
vineyards in my youth, I think) and then went
into town to dine at Mac's Old House and to sit in that
ancient theatre where my mother once held my father's
strong hand.
You
didn't ask, but that is some of what I did on my summer
vacation. I hope you had one, too, and that it
was equally delightful in ways suitable to you.
x
The
Rev’d Lloyd Prator, Rector
Saint John’s in the Village Episcopal Church
New
York City
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